What to eat Wagyu sliders with basil mayonnaise, succulent little bites; papaya salad, a crunchy bowl of green papaya with lime juice and peanuts; larb, the popular ground meat dish (pork or chicken) with lots of mint and coriander; succulent roast duck breast garnished with broccolini and a marinated hard-boiled egg; green curry with eggplant, green beans, peppers and protein (try the shrimp); see wide rice noodles with Chinese broccoli and carrots; a perfect pad thai; homemade ice creams and sorbets.

What to drink Cha Yen has a full liquor license with a 10-seat bar. A short beer list includes Thai favorites Singha and Leo. Some wine list entries show bottles more at home at a high-end steakhouse (hundreds of dollars on the price tag).

Take away Food prepared with care, adorable staff, couples of all generations, families, babies, grandmothers in the dining room. You see big bags of takeout going out in the blink of an eye. One wall is covered with a vivid illustration of a busy street scene. Another near the entrance has a TV with Thai disco. It’s a welcoming place. Bunnagitkarn says her employees are enthusiastic and she is delighted and surprised by the warmth of her customers. “I feel like this neighborhood has given us a lot of support,” she said. 620, rue Mont Auburn, Watertown, 617-393-0031, www.chayenthai.com. Appetizers, soups, salads $6-$15. Starters, stir-fries, curries, grills, noodles, rice $9-22.

Sheryl Julian can be contacted at [email protected].