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What’s really in your honey? The sticky truth behind the falsification
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What’s really in your honey? The sticky truth behind the falsification

It may look like honey and flow like honey, but is it really an impostor? (Getty)

It may look like honey and flow like honey, but is it really an impostor? (Getty)

If you thought honey was the last pure thing left in your closet, think again. That sweet dollop on your overnight oats may be hiding a sticky lie.

Last month, DNA tests commissioned by the Honey Authenticity Network and conducted by Estonian laboratory Celvia revealed that more than 90 percent of honey jars from major UNITED KINGDOM retailers were stuffed with cheap products like sugar syrups. (In contrast, all five samples from local British beekeepers passed with flying colors.)

For anyone who feels cheated, it helps to know the lengths these impostors go to. So what the hell is actually in much of the honey we buy?

For fraudstershoney is a good deal. The FSA said The Independent that although “there is no evidence that any honey on sale in the UK is unsafe, it is a product which may present a risk of fraud”. Products with premium labels or complex supply chains are particularly attractive to fraudsters. Syrups made from rice, beets, or other cheap crops are incorporated to bulk up the cheap honey. These fillers look and flow like honey, but lack the unique flavor, nutrients, and enzymes that make the real stuff a natural, healthy treat. It’s like buying wine and getting grape juice. “Honey is a high-value food and there are increasingly sophisticated methods of adulterating it to avoid detection,” says the British Beekeepers Association (BBKA). With the global price of real honey around $3,000 (£2,370) per tonne, compared to $500 per tonne for syrup, it’s clear why some are taking the shortcut.

Food fraud is a widespread problem. Olive oil is often diluted with cheaper oils, and cheaper varieties of fish are sometimes labeled as premium species. Even beef has been implicated in cheating scandals – remember the horsemeat lasagna horror of 2013?

Honey fraud itself has a long history. In 2000, imports of Chinese honey to the United States were subject to anti-dumping duties, revealing “honey laundering” schemes in which adulterated honey was shipped through other countries to avoid tariffs. This practice was so widespread that U.S. investigators eventually uncovered a sprawling honey smuggling and tax evasion trade. A quarter of a century later, “counterfeit honey remains a significant problem within supply chains here in the UK and it is crucial that retailers and authorities take stronger action to protect consumers,” says Sam Trett from The British Honey Company.

Part of the problem is outdated testing. Traditional IRMS tests only detect certain types of syrups, meaning counterfeits can slip through undetected. Celvia’s DNA analysis, however, combines the honey’s genetic makeup with a database of 500 authentic profiles, helping to identify what is real. For some, however, these findings raise questions, saying the tests unfairly target imported honey. This all sounds a bit like a magician insisting on conducting his own inspections: there is an obvious conflict of interest.

Meanwhile, Europe is working to combat honey fraud. The EU has introduced new testing methods and labeling laws so consumers know exactly where their honey comes from. The UK, however, appears to be slower to follow suit.

Low honey prices could pose greater threat to bees than pesticides or disease (Getty)Low honey prices could pose greater threat to bees than pesticides or disease (Getty)

Low honey prices could pose greater threat to bees than pesticides or disease (Getty)

The Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs recognizes the seriousness of the problem and says: “We take any type of food fraud very seriously. There is no place for adulterated honey which undermines consumer confidence and disadvantages law-abiding businesses. This is a reassuring position, although consumers may wonder why so many counterfeit products continue to circulate.

It’s one thing for shoppers to suspect every jar on the shelf, but for British beekeepers this flood of cheap fake honey is a disaster. Retailers stock foreign blends at suspiciously low prices, driving down quality and prices. Beekeepers who once sold to supermarkets now find themselves relying on farmers’ markets or direct sales to stay afloat. And it’s not just about selling honey, it’s also about protecting bees, which already face threats from pesticides, disease and habitat loss.

The stakes are higher than they seem. Without bees, entire ecosystems suffer. Honey is the byproduct of an essential relationship between pollinators and plants. Bees help pollinate our crops, support biodiversity and stabilize our food chain. “Real honey is a delight to eat, its flavors varying depending on which flowers the bees visit, rather than just being uniformly sweet,” says Lynne Ingram, president of the Honey Authenticity Network.

Real honey is a delight to eat with flavors varying depending on which flowers the bees visit, rather than just being uniformly sweet.

Lynne Ingram, President of the Honey Authenticity Network

Additionally, economic pressure from competition from cheap counterfeits threatens not only livelihoods but also biodiversity. A third of the honey produced worldwide is now thought to be fake, and the Honey Authenticity Network estimates that low prices pose a greater threat to bees than pesticides or disease. When beekeeping is not economically viable, beekeepers abandon their hives, leaving bees without the care they need to thrive. Fewer bees means less pollination, and less pollination affects crop yields. This may seem like a big step, but the lack of real honey could mean fewer flowers, fewer plants, and possibly fewer options in your cart.

So how can we be sure what we’re buying is the real deal? Keeping an eye out for certifications such as the British Honey Association label could be reassuring. Some supermarkets are starting to test their honey supplies, providing greater transparency. Better yet, small British producers sell their honey in food markets and directly from the hive to their homes. BBKA President Diane Drinkwater suggests buying local: “As a beekeeper, I know how delicious honey from my own hive is. There is a huge range of local honeys available – why not try some from your nearest beekeeper? » she said.

For those looking for real honey, there are other practical tips to consider. High-quality honey is often thicker, takes time to pour, and does not separate as easily. Checking single origin labels against mixed sources can also be helpful. “We encourage consumers and retailers to choose honey with proven provenance from reputable local beekeepers and businesses, ensuring both quality and a sustainable, ethical model for the future,” says Trett. Buying directly from beekeepers, if possible, is perhaps the best guarantee of quality.

What is actually in our honey? For now, it’s a murky mix of unknowns, where the brand masks a synthetic concoction rather than nature’s true nectar. If we want honey to mean honey, it is up to not only consumers but also beekeepers, retailers and regulators to demand transparency and crack down on impostors. Until then, it’s a test of confidence in the food we buy and the lengths we’ll go to protect one of the sweetest things in life.