To balance the sweetness of corn, we rely on the fermented, salty, slightly sweet flavors of miso to add depth. Plump, tender kernels cut from fresh sweet corn cobs are the first choice, but out of season an equal amount of frozen corn kernels that have been thawed and dried will do; they will just take a few more minutes to brown.

The optional furikake topping adds even more layers of salty-sweet flavor (furikake is a Japanese condiment often sprinkled over rice). You can also add some heat and hints of sesame and citrus by sprinkling with shichimi togarashi, known as a Japanese seven-spice blend.

¼ cup sake

3 tablespoons of white miso

2 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 1 tablespoon pieces

4 cups fresh corn kernels (from about 5 ears of corn; see head note)

1 bunch green onions, white parts thinly sliced, green parts cut into 1-inch lengths, reserved separately

2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger

Ground white or black pepper

Furikake or shichimi togarashi, to serve (optional)

In a small bowl, whisk together the sake and miso until no lumps remain, then set aside. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the corn and scallion whites, then cook, stirring often, until the corn begins to brown, about 5 minutes.

Add the ginger and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then stir in the miso mixture and scallion greens. Remove from the heat, taste and season with pepper. To serve, sprinkle with furikake or shichimi togarashi, if using.

Triple Corn Polenta with Chili-Tomato Sauce

Makes 4 to 6 servings

This polenta incorporates corn in three ways. First, there is the polenta itself: we grate the grains from the cobs into it, as well as the starchy “milk” from the cobs. Finally, we simmer the cobs to create a corn-infused broth for cooking the polenta. A simple blend of chopped tomatoes, fresh chili and balsamic, and fragrant basil garnishes each bowl.

Out of season, frozen corn on the cob (found in the freezer alongside other vegetables) and Campari tomatoes work wonderfully.

3 ears of corn, hulls and silk removed (see summary note)

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1 cup coarse polenta or stone-ground coarse yellow cornmeal

1 large ripe tomato, seeded and chopped (see main note)

1 Fresno or Serrano pepper, hulled, seeded and sliced

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, preferably white balsamic

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons of salted butter

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

Heat oven to 375 degrees with rack in lower middle position. Place a grater in a large bowl. Using the large holes, grate the kernels from each ear of corn. Then place each shredded cob on its base in the bowl and, using the dull back of a chef’s knife, scrape it up and down, allowing the “milk” to drip into the bowl; reserve the cobs.

In a small pot, combine the corn cobs, 6½ cups water and 1½ teaspoons salt; simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low, then cover and cook for 10 minutes. Using tongs, remove and discard the cobs. While whisking, slowly add the polenta. Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat, whisking often, then place the pan, uncovered, in the oven and cook for 1 hour.

Remove the pan from the oven. Whisk until smooth, then use a wooden spoon to scrape the bottom and corners to loosen any stuck bits. Add the grated corn. Return the pan, uncovered, to the oven. Cook until the mixture is thick and creamy and the granules are tender, another 10 to 30 minutes (time depends on polenta or cornmeal). Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the tomato, chili pepper, vinegar, oil and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper; set aside until ready to serve.

Remove the pan from the oven. Add the butter. Let sit uncovered for 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Add additional water, if necessary, to dilute. Serve garnished with the tomato mixture, basil and a pinch of pepper.

Yelapa-Style Sweet Corn Pie

Makes 8 to 10 servings

We are big fans of desserts made with sweet corn. Whether in a cake, pudding or custard, the delicate, herbaceous notes of fresh corn pair wonderfully with sugar, eggs and dairy.

This unusual pie, developed by food writer Paola Briseño-González, is inspired by the pay de elote (corn pie) sold by the slice in the beach town of Yelapa, Mexico. There, street vendors offer treats intended to be eaten on site, without the use of utensils.

Fresh corn kernels cut from just-shucked peak-season cobs are, of course, the best, because their flavor is mild and their texture tender; you will need three cobs to produce the 2½ cups of grains needed for the recipe. Out of season, frozen corn kernels will work, but be sure to thaw them completely before use and dry them with paper towels to remove excess moisture.

Serve the tart at room temperature or chilled, with or without forks. Store leftovers in the refrigerator for up to three days.

394 grams (2½ cups) corn kernels (see head note)

1 cup of whole milk

4 large eggs

107 grams (½ cup) white sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon of lemon juice

1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon table salt

Hot water pie crust, cooked and cooled (recipe follows)

Heat oven to 325 degrees with rack in middle position. In a blender, combine the corn, milk, eggs, sugar and cornstarch. Blend until smooth, about 1 minute.

Place a fine mesh strainer over a large bowl. Pour the puree into the strainer and press down on the solids with a silicone spatula to extract as much liquid as possible; discard the solids. Stir in the lemon juice, vanilla and salt, then pour the mixture into the pie crust. Bake until the filling jiggles only slightly when the pie is gently shaken, 55 to 60 minutes.

Let cool completely on a rack. Serve at room temperature or refrigerate for about 2 hours (cover if refrigerating longer) and serve chilled.

Hot Water Pie Crust

Makes 1 baked 9-inch pie crust

195 grams (1½ cup) all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon table salt

57 grams (4 tablespoons) salted butter, cut into pieces

47 grams (¼ cup) vegetable shortening, cut into pieces

Heat oven to 375 degrees with rack in middle position. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and salt, then make a well in the center; Cancel.

In a small saucepan, combine butter, shortening and ¼ cup water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to melt solids. As soon as they are melted and the mixture is simmering, pour it into the well of the dry ingredients. Working quickly, stir with a silicone spatula until the dry ingredients are evenly moistened and without any dry spots; the dough will be very soft and resemble wet mashed potatoes. Turn it out onto a large sheet of plastic wrap and, using your hands, shape it into a 6- to 8-inch disk.

Cover the disk of dough with another large sheet of plastic wrap and roll it into a 12-inch round of even thickness. Peel off the top plastic sheet. Using the bottom sheet, carefully invert the round onto a 9-inch pie plate, centering it as best you can. Spread the dough, with the plastic still on it, into the corners and sides of the pie plate. Carefully remove the plastic. Repair any tears in the dough. Cut off excess dough and flute or crimp the edge. Carefully line the dough with a large sheet of foil, gently pressing it into the corners and sides, then fill with about 2 cups of pie weights (dried beans or rice can also be used ).

Bake until set, about 20 minutes. Carefully lift the foil with weights, then prick the pie crust all over with a fork to deflate any air bubbles and prevent additional bubbles from forming. Bake until the shell is lightly browned, another 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool.

Christopher Kimball is the founder of Milk Street, which is home to a magazine, a school, and radio and television shows. Globe readers get 12 weeks of full digital access, plus two issues of Milk Street print magazine, for just $1. Go to 177milkstreet.com/globe. Send your comments to [email protected].