It turns out that an after-dark arrival isn’t the ideal start to a stay at Buahan, a Banyan Tree resort. It’s not just that you miss the magnificent view that greets newcomers: of the jungle and one of Bali’s sacred peaks. If you’re like me, a 90-minute nighttime drive from the airport is enough to give you pause.

The idea of ​​a resort that invites nature in, with no walls or doors on your accommodation, seems appealing when stuck in a big city. But as I walk through the tropical night to the sounds of frogs and insects, I begin to wonder just how wild this experience is going to get.

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